What are rules in fashion?

'Early on, I realized how important it is to just be curious. You mustn't be frightened or hide behind preconceived ideas. You have to experiment. You just do it and it's beautiful because you discover an energy that feeds you. There are no rules.' 
- John Galliano

Extreme Couture

These beautiful editorial photographs by Mario Testino (in Vogue UK May 2007) reminded me how relevant extreme beauty is referenced in modern fashion. From Dior's huge bell-shaped dress to Givenchy's bolero with the lustrous sequins, from edgy styling with latex stockings to chrome bustiers and chockers, all created a sense of delicate, theatric elegance. 

Image from Vogue UK, May 2007

Image from Vogue UK, May 2007

Image from Vogue UK, May 2007

Image from Vogue UK, May 2007

Image from Vogue UK, May 2007

Image from Vogue UK, May 2007

Image from Vogue UK, May 2007

Image from Vogue UK, May 2007

Image from Vogue UK, May 2007

Mirror matter

I really like the work of Kate Shaw and her partner Darren Wardle. The mirrored landscapes were created by paint-pour technique and brushstrokes. Very illusory and tranquil!

Image from Vogue Australia, April 2008

Image from Vogue Australia, April 2008

Image from Vogue Australia, April 2008

Fashion statement

'If from your first meeting with a woman you remember her dress, it means that it was an ugly dress; if you remember the woman, it means that she had a beautiful dress.' - Coco Chanel

Fabric sourcing...

I sourced different fabric swatches with various weights and it'd be great to have a mix of leather, sheer and opaque, metallic or texture fabrications. 

Drape wk2

Coming to week 2, the draping on stand worked really well in term of getting what I want to translate my inspiration from initial ideas to realistic garment. Space and layer are incorporated in the garment to create innovative shapes, resembling Ha Long Bay's unique cave features. The fitted bodice of the garment will be developed more to display the modern version of the corset. By working with different fabric weight, more interesting silhouettes are created.

Drape wk1

It's such an exciting workshop as I played around with second-hand clothes on the stand to create unexpected silhouettes. Sometimes it's good to leave all the preconceptions out of my mind and just quickly pin these garments up so that more refreshing ideas of shape and volume would come out easier.

Laser cut leather

I'm very interested in laser cut leather and I'm thinking to incorporate this into some pieces of my collection. The delicate patterns shown on the leather garment create an innovative approach to textile surface, yet bringing elegant style for the wearer.

Image from https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzuoyUwu3OjGWOB_mJoEaNd9hkvPMvcrCTzTSqKyRM9L1hMGiEjQGvkQYlYZwv159EGdreTmvbX4nhuB3Y_f0Pt-03tfgT1uT700gwnyrxfV3o5ncwFQYCabULCI6Gak2egTQyZtega3g/s1600/Haider+Ackermann+Laser+cut+leather+waistcoat.jpg

Image from https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-WpV6mC4Xw3YevpI9HX119ZYBGAovt9IhWRZFeROn9ACpojVV_EwDz_6emSQsgq0YdK8tPSExtoEUs9fxfe1VCtZmTTmqJbkmBHvQC4jSJ6ePOz9R5tVXVIavMLgsJ2Ii9iWEiOHpDhg/s1600/Haider+Ackermann+Laser+cut+leather+waistcoat+2.jpg

Image from https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3n2yTCr-zH7aPoUColcd8Wavfr5erSBQKRL_2FqYJNY2FwQzFhcOdZsFAuy4cu1ByTAe4bLXi1TT6UiynVLbnCOfYVNfYfeCjmiUh0KnEroo1zB-AccV3VxB4vclB5gIkDw0Q7EgqMEQ/s1600/Haider+Ackermann+Laser+cut+leather+waistcoat+3.jpg

http://numberseventysix.blogspot.com/2010/10/laser-cut-leather-waistcoat-haider.html

Surface texture

Magical texture and colours inside the caves will be tranlated into garments through the use of hand beading and embroidery as well as different fabric manipulations.

Inspiration

By combining the two inspirations, my Spring/Summer 2012 womenswear collection will be an exploration of the aesthetics from both states of extreme: beauty and nature. The garments’ silhouettes and textiles will resemble some unique features of Ha Long Bay’s scenery as well as the notion of beauty: both historical and cultural references in a contemporary fashion context.

The muse

The muse appears in this concept is a strong, feminine and independent woman. On the search for true ideal beauty, she finds herself in a bed of nature; even the most extraordinary elements exude a magical, delicate mystery.

Corset & its meaning...

Corset plays a very important mean of getting closer to a perfect physical ideal of a woman’s body. It forced the whole torso into an hourglass-shaped yet accentuated the curves of the wearers.

From Christian Dior to Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen, different materials such as satins, silks, leather, chrome and wood have been used to make the corset.

Although restricted tight lacing from the corset gave a risk to women’s health, the corset has been seen as sexual energy, personal empowerment and social standing.

eXtreme nature

Inspired by a trip to Ha Long Bay in Vietnam, my inspiration came from the magical sescape and the mysterious legendof this bay. Ha Long means Descending Dragon and according to this place's old legend, limestones and islets were once jewels and jades which the dragons spitted out to create a barrier agaisnt the invader, helped the king defend the land.

Image from http://www.beihai2000.com/images/viet/halong/halong27.jpg

I was amazed at the sculptural work of nature that the bay displays. So romantic and tranquil! Yet the contrasting spectacles inside the caves are even breathtakingly beautiful, strange and bizarre...

Research concept

These are some of the pages from my journal that reflects the concept of extreme beauty in fashion. It’s very impressed to investigate how the grotesque aspect of this concept was interpreted into the most unique and sophisticated creations from different designers. 

A starting point...

The book of Harold Koda 'Extreme beauty: the body transformed' is so interesting that it gives me an initial idea to start the research for my final fashion project. 

In fashion history and across cultures, the physical ideal of beauty was achieved by some of the most extreme strategies. Parts of the female body was manipulated, contricted or extended therefore led to altering the body structure.

Image from http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/09/78/03/00/10/0978030010312_500X500.jpg

Although the concept of extreme beauty has been explored by many fashion designers before, I still want to tranlate my interpretation of the ideal beauty in my collection in a refreshing way.